Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Love Letters and Cultural Appropriation: Gala Darling

i'm very excited to present my first guest contributor, and long-time super awesome friend, iris . she's currently completing her masters in philosophy. her research focusses on connecting disability theory to feminist philosophical frameworks. in her free time, she volunteers at Out on the Shelf, OOTS, a queer bookstore in Guelph, Ontario, drinks lots of tea, and longs for folks to have dance parties with.
Fashion blogger extraordinaire Gala Darling knows a thing about creating a signature style: in some parts of the Internet, her cotton-candy hairstyle, positivity-inducing attitude, and recovering-Goth-meets-Sex-and-the-City outfit posts make her an icon. And Darling makes her money precisely because she is so fabulous: readers of her blog shell out extra cash for installments of her e-book, which promises to teach her acolytes the secrets to attaining her magical, glitter-infused lifestyle for themselves.
Gala Darling is so into personal branding that she has a signature signature: she signs off her posts, “Love Letters and Feather Headdresses, Gala xx”.


Yep, feather headdresses. Gala has been a fan of this hipster-hyped accessory for the latest year or so. Every post, she wishes her reader “feather headdresses” as her parting words. I couldn’t believe what I was reading, but after months of this, when it finally sunk in that, indeed, she was doing it on purpose, and she wasn’t going to realize that this was Classic Cultural Appropriation Fail, I left a comment on her blog asking what was up with the phrase.

Gala’s response was even more cringe-inducing:
So many things I love are from cultures foreign to my own (hip hop, Indian music, Buddhist concepts, etc.), should I ignore those things because I’m a white girl from New Zealand? My life would be much less fabulous if I did! I absolutely believe that culture is something to be shared, delighted in, learned about & cherished…
Rather than engage with the many reasons that Indigenous peoples might not want to have affluent white women wearing their traditional regalia, Darling speaks to the reasons that her own, very privileged lifestyle would lose some of its lustre if she felt she needed to limit her style choices to things that come solely from her own culture.

In doing so, she basically justifies her use of the headdress as part of her own personal branding by saying that it benefits her to do so. And since Darling bases her income on selling the desirability of her own fabulous lifestyle, and in influencing other young women to find that lifestyle desirable, she is literally appropriating Indigenous culture to benefit her own bottom line.

Last week, in a post promoting the latest instalment of her book, Darling describes the transmission of the electronic copies as “whizzing around our heads right now, landing with a splash in the inboxes of international playgirls, glamorous savages & doll-faced geniuses all over the world!” (emphasis mine).

We know that Darling thinks that (at least some) “savages” are glamorous, as we can see from the style inspiration on her blog. But now, she has portrayed herself as selling her own fashion-forward, magical lifestyle back to the folks she stole it from in the first place. I left an admittedly-frustrated comment on her post calling her out on her language, and so did a few other folks I know, but they have all been deleted.


Back on that original post in February, I responded that the problem with cultural appropriation, as I saw it, is that Indigenous folks face discrimination and in some cases have a history of being legally barred from wearing things like headdresses. The hipster headdress is perceived by others as being “fierce” or “exotic” or “creative” or “bohemian” at the same time that Indigenous people who might want to dress similarly would be perceived negatively for doing so. I said that when you are a person who has not invested any time in understanding the widespread racism that Indigenous people and communities face, or the continuing effects of colonialism on those communities, it is especially insensitive and can be straight-up racist to align yourself with those communities by taking something you think is fashionable and using it to make yourself look cool. I asked Gala to think about how “you are taking from that culture and giving nothing back, not even your constructive support.”

But this most recent comment about “savages” shows that, obviously, she hasn’t thought about it. And the fact that Darling is deleting comments that call her out means that she isn’t willing to publicly discuss it, either.

And that’s bullshit. It is time for Darling to have to publicly discuss her Cultural Appropriation beyond a pithy comment about her fabulous lifestyle. And it is time for her to be asked to answer to similar criticisms being made by other bloggers. Why does her blog depict mainly white women? Why, when she talks so much about self-love and body acceptance, does she post photos of thin women almost exclusively?

I love a good fashion blog. I love talking about outfits. But we have no business allowing the representatives of the fashion blog community to be oppressive. Gala Darling needs to be called out. And we need to step up and do it.

There are lots of resources out there already that talk about cultural appropriation and the hipster headdress. Namely, this post at the Cultural Appropriations blog called “But Why Can’t I Wear a Hipster Headdress?

There are lotsa reasons why, of course, including this one:
By the sheer fact that you live in the United States you are benefiting from the history of genocide and continued colonialism of Native peoples. That land you're standing on? Indian land. Taken illegally so your ancestor who came to the US could buy it and live off it, gaining valuable capital (both monetary and cultural) that passed down through the generations to you. Have I benefited as well, given I was raised in a white, suburban community? yes. absolutely. but by dismissing and minimizing the continued subordination and oppression of Natives in the US by donning your headdress, you are contributing to the culture of power that continues the cycle today.

Two years ago now, Jessica Yee wrote a post about Juliette Lewis’s hipster-headdress appropriation:
But it’s not like this all isn’t a usual occurrence. We in the Native community have to witness this with every kid who dresses up like Pocahontas on Halloween, or every time we turn on the TV to watch the Redskins, Braves, or Indians play. In fact it’s been going on for so damn long that we’re kinda the only race who it’s still happening to on this extreme, public level, to the point where the fight has basically died down. Or has it?
What I find most interesting though about all this imagery, and in particular Lewis’s choice of dress with her band, is actually coming from my raging feminist point of view. In an attempt to appear strong, raw, and unapologetic, people, and in this case, a woman, feels like she has to appropriate Native culture to a pretty extreme extent in order to do a good job of it.

102 comments:

KittyMeow said...

Interesting topic! I can't even begin to delve into the implications or make insightful remarks about this. All I think is that if this were happening in Australia, and affluent white girls where traipsing around at festivals wearing traditional Aborigine clothing and body paint, then there would be absolute outrage! Not cool. Not cool at all.

alana said...

Amazing post. It's interesting to me that "black-face" makeup is considered to be wrong by a lot of people (though unfortuantely not by everyone), but wearing traditional regalia is seen as perfectly fine. Obviously they're not the exact same thing, but I dont' understand how one person's love of feathers trumps the respect and regard of an entire culture.

julia aka garconniere said...

kittymeow: one thing i've been really interested in in discussions about cultural appropriation is that i've been hearing how people from so many different places feel about these things. in the specific case of gala darling, she is from new zealand, and i wonder if she feels the same way about traditional pieces of clothing and dress from maori peoples as she seems to feel about native american peoples style. it is interesting to take a step back, when you are from a different place, to see how these things would be perceived depending on your nationality, race, class, and a whole host of other factors, you know? thanks for your comment.

alana: there are definitely interesting links between cultural appropriation and blackface, although like you are pointing out, blackface is often talked about more clearly as racist whereas cultural appropriation, it seems, is still debateable (especially in the fashion community). if you haven't already read this, i'm sure it would interest you:

http://threadbared.blogspot.com/2009/10/blackface-and-violence-of-revulsion.html

the-boojum said...

hear, hear!

jenny tuesday said...

oh, gala darling. yeah, so when i first found out about her, it was around the time that she wrote that "a bindi is the ultimate fashion accessory". She was also sure to tell her readers that wikipedia says it's ok to wear them, so they don't need to "feel guilty" about it. nice. http://galadarling.com/article/bindi-revival

Poppy said...

I live in New Zealand, in a city where Gala lived (but not Wellington, where she grew up.) You have to realise that Maori culture is a lot more integrated in our lives than Native Americans in the U.S. and Canada (New Zealand is certainly far from perfect, let me clarify.) We have a Maori t.v. channel, kids learn Maori in schools, etc. Historically, White dealings with Maori are also very different from Native Americans (again: not saying our history was great, just different.)

Aspects of Maori culture that White people "use", such as language, pounamu necklaces and so forth, tend to be because Maori culture is more a part of New Zealand culture as a whole, and thus it's not cultural appropriation in the same way that wearing feather headdresses is. For the most part, Maori are not seen as ~exotic~ so there isn't that sort of fetish about their culture.

Of course there are parts of New Zealand where there aren't that many Maori, and there are people who are very racist, but in that case - why bother taking something from the natives when white culture is so superior? (sarcasm.) And of course there are people who completely appropriate Maori culture, but it's not as universally accepted as appropriating Native American culture seems to be.

I really can't imagine someone dressing up as a traditional Maori for Halloween. I am sure there are people who have done it, but it's not something I can picture any White person I have met even considering. Lastly, this is a good article you should look at: http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/3272904/Air-New-Zealands-new-uniforms-disrespect-Maori Trelise Cooper designed the clothing and she basically caters to rich white soccer moms.

definatalie said...

I'm glad to read this post! Thanks Iris.

thisanjali said...

Interesting topic indeed! My family is from Sri Lanka and we live in the United States. We are practicing Buddhists and sometimes when my mother and I got shopping we see purses and shirts with Buddha on and it, along with some Hindu gods and other prints and patterns that are common in South Asian countries.

I never found these items to be truly offense, though my mother did, but it did confuse me when I'd see people actually purchasing these products. I don't think that anyone who would buy such shirts would have a true understanding of the cultural relevance and dis-respectfulness of plastering religious deities and figures on products.

Sometimes it seems difficult for people, even myself when I know better, to separate art and fashion from being distasteful and unrepresentative of a whole entire people's culture, religion and way of life!

And those headbands, jeez not even remotely attractive, just stupid and unsightly. Also, I don't care for fashion bloggers like Gala Darling. She seems to be a bit mindless in her doings, whatever they may be.

Hey! You should check out my blog as well, we write about very similar topics!

http://thisanjali.blogspot.com


x

julia aka garconniere said...

jenny tuesday: i had never seen that post! my jaw dropped, but then again, if she signs her posts "love letters and feather headdresses," it really shouldn't surprise me that three years ago she explicitly told her audience not to worry about misappropriation... basically just because she tells them not to.

poppy: one of my closest friends grew up in new zealand, and we've had discussions about these sorts of parallels before. thanks for contributing to the conversation! it's really nice to see this issue critiqued from a global perspective.

thisanjali: i am following your blog and tumblr now! i like what i see.

i like your point about it not necessarily being explicitly offensive to buy or wear something from a culture other than your own; to me, in these situations, what i find particularly offensive is that the (often white, privileged) people who are appropriating refuse to see that their actions COULD be interpreted as offensive and just react defensively. thanks for commenting!

thisanjali said...

of course, about commenting! i enjoy reading your blog because i think your thoughts and ideas about activist work are important topics to discuss.

i think that its crucial for people everywhere to talk openly about these issues and confront biases that we all hold within, especially when it comes to fashion and art.

i wholly agree with your comments about many white, privileged individuals refusing to acknowledge certain actions they've taken or invested in when in comes to "expressing themselves". a lot of that is definitely cultural appropriation and bullshit excuses to avoid the fact that many other people in this world, who aren't white and privileged are severely underrepresented politically and culturally. and that, when they are represented it's done in the most disrespectful, ignorant manner via arts& fashion! yikes.


it's strange to take that stance and say, yes, it seems to me that white privileged people in particular are guilty of being callous to the unfortunate history of oppression. this may seem more obvious at times but never the less, white black brown blue- we are all callous to the realities of the oppression, political disparity and mass poverty of people worldwide.



lovely conversations, yes, keep up the interesting posts/guest posts/neat-o articles!

x

Jennifer said...

Thank you so much for writing this. I used to read Gala Darling's blog occasionally, and eventually grew more and more disgusted with what I saw.

I think what bothers me the most is when people refuse to even engage in conversation about these topics, or accept anything that might be viewed as criticism. Her deleting dissenting comments was the last straw for me.

Anyway, I've been reading your blog for awhile, so I also wanted to chime in and say that I really appreciate you. Keep up the good work!

Punch N Judy said...

I note that Gala has changed her sign off and removed "glamourous savages" also!

Mary said...

I find blogs like hers so creepy. We know they are written by one person, but they feel like they have been written by a marketing robot, and all this vague talk of empowerment is totally meaningless.

emily said...

I tried to bring up some issues on cultural appropriation in a post she had a while back with a picture of herself in front of a 'tipi' at a music festival, but she refused to acknowledge her white privilege in the issue.

@Punch N Judy

wow that was fast! Guess she thought if she removed the words and pretended it never happened, she gets a free card.

Norma said...

Well, she seems to have changed her signoff.

I'm not saying this is a "free" card. I wonder though, maybe this *was* a learning experience and she's going to be more aware?

I find her hype and marketing ridiculous myself (twelve BUCKS for an episode of a podcast? REALLY??) but I wouldn't write her off entirely if she's actually taking steps to correct mistakes and not repeat them.

Faux Naif said...

oh this is perfect, PERFECT. as an anthropology student i find myself cringing at almost every turn. you have eloquently and effectively pointed out so many problems - thank you, so much.

i love your blog, i love le fait que tu sois québécoise, i love your feminism. ah, you're pretty great.

Sylvia said...

I wonder what counts as de minimus cultural appropriation, or where do you draw the line? The fashion blogger Betty (who I think is fairly popular) posted some pictures of her going to Chinatown in Paris and trying on a rice hat. I tumbl'd the picture last week because I felt fairly ambivalent about it. At first I cringed, but then I had trouble determining whether this was in fact cultural appropriation. It's not as clearcut as the hipsters in headdresses thing.

Frankincensy said...

I was a devoted reader of Gala's blog a couple of years ago, but the way she simply ignored or deleted dissenting comments, no matter what the topic, started to get to me. When someone just resists even the most tactful, polite attempt to engage with them over something problematic they've said, that's my cue to get out. I hope these most recent comments and posts inspire Gala to think more deeply about the implications of some of the things she says.

jm said...

Also, she had that feather headdress to wear in a really terrible marketing video she conveniently failed to show her darling nonpareil's -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCZo7hVL8W0

Ok so, I think i get it.... Blind consumption is good but cultural sensitivity is bad? Really Gala? WOW! Thanks for being such a great roll model! xxx

Ashley! said...

I see I'm late to the party, but I have something interesting to note on the whole Gala Darling cultural appropriation issue.

A while back (before she disabled her blog comments!) I was going through her book posts, where she and the commenters posted about the best books they had ever read. I was intrigued, as I'm always on the lookout for new books to read, and coming from an audience of women approximately my age I figured they would have some good titles to recommend.

Gala has stated many times over that one of her favourite books of all time is "Dangerous Angels" by Francesca Lia Block. I figured what the hell, and ordered it from amazon.

Upon reading it, I found it to be one of the most insensitive and culturally appropriating books I've ever read. While there are some nice aspects to the writing and some of the story lines, the glaring racism completely ruined it for me.

What kind of racism? Well, the racism is almost entirely directed at Native Americans. The two white female main characters seem to be some pre-hipster late-90's jerks who wear headdresses, moccasins, and stick feathers in their hair. One of them sleeps in a tee pee, while during the day they hang out with their (I'm assuming, they don't go into it much) token Native friend. I'm only assuming he's Native because he talks to animal spirits, casts spells and lives alone on a hills full of tumbleweeds...and his name is Coyote.

Basically this book is filled with every Native stereotype you could think of, and it is glossed over in a rosy, cheery and ignorant manner. Very much, I must say, like Gala Darling's blog. I am assuming that she probably sees nothing wrong with the book, which is why she seems to be modelling her life after it. Seriously, the similarities between the books characters and her attitude/fashion sense is uncanny.

Since Gala has stopped posting reader comments, I will not be visiting her blog anymore. When she signed off as "love letters and feathered headdresses" I never clued in. I guess I assumed she was talking about burlesque-style hair fascinators. Boy was that ever silly of me! The racism in her blog is so clear to me now that I can't believe I never noticed it sooner. Giant *ugh*

RedHead said...

Though I agree with you in many ways about the way she is using other cultures' symbols and trappings to make her look hip and cool, I objected to your comment about how her blog portrays only white women. It's a blog, and it comes down to her taste, not what's acceptable. I imagine you would call me racist based on the model content on my own blog. Just because she has a huge following doesn't mean she should start changing what she writes just to appeal and include all her readers - that's called selling out.
But I find her too pretentious for words, so I'm unsure why I'm defending her.

mirrored rooms said...

totally late to the comments party, but I read this entry last night and was thinking about it today when I went in the $2 store in South Auckland. In among the love, sequins, and glittery bits they sold stick-on temporary Moko tattoos. Outside, Maori women with real Moko were going to their car.
No matter where she grew up in New Zealand, Gala Darling would have learned that things like fake Moko or plastic tikis had the weight of history attached, and are not something that anyone can put on just for fun, or because they think it's pretty. Would she dare wear a Swarovski crystal Moko or a pink chicken feather korowhai? In public? Maori people and cultures are visible and taken seriously even though NZ is far from perfect, and there are some tacky souvenirs out there. The hipster headdress is so offensive on so many levels, but the wearer's effacement of Native American cultures to history or fantasy has got to be near the top of the list. Gala Darling has the privilege of *knowing better* on top of the privileges of cultural appropriation. It's nice that she's switched her signature to "peace, love, and pink orchids", but I wonder how much of that is due to consideration of critiques, or was it just because feather headdresses are/were getting played out, soooo last year's festival?

Ally said...

Reading this way late but wanted to comment how glad I am you wrote this! Hurray!

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